Over one thousand years ago, an ancient king established Angkor as the capital city of the Khmer Empire. The city would grow to be the largest in the pre-industrial world, home to about one million and covering an area the size of Los Angeles. Today, the ruins lay hidden in the forest near Siem Reap, Cambodia. Temples straight out of adventure novels are in various states of ruin, which often adds to the aesthetic; tree roots envelop entire temple walls, proving that nature always wins out over time. This was our first stop in Southeast Asia that was on everyone’s bucket list, however we (mostly) managed to avoid the hordes of tourists and find peace and beauty while exploring the temples.

Our tuk-tuk bounced along the dark streets of Siem Reap in the pre-dawn hours, anticipation of a beautiful sunrise doing more to wake us up than the few gulps of coffee we managed to get down. We were on our way to Srah Srang, an ancient reservoir and royal bathing pool for the sunrise. We approached in darkness on quiet feet, and found only a few others waited with us in reverent silence for the sun to crest the horizon. We were glad to be away from the thousands who would be gathered at Angkor Wat to snap the famous sunrise picture.

Sunrise at the royal pool/reservoir

Catching the first light at Pre Rup temple

We spent the day exploring temple ruins: admiring intricate carvings, improbable architecture, and nature overtaking the ancient buildings.

Really cool!

Ta Phrom - where the jungle is slowly reclaiming the temple

Our favorites included Ta Phrom where trees are swallowing up entire walls, Banteay Srai, with remarkably intricate bas-relief on red sandstone said to be carved by ladies, and Preah Khan, which was huge and felt as if we alone were wandering hallways lined with moss with rays of sunlight peaking through windows. Bayon, the temple in the center of the Angkor Thom walled city was also amazing, but here we intersected the crowds in the heat of the day, and the experience was somewhat muted.

The faces of Bayon temple

Mr. Vin drove us everywhere in his tuk-tuk

The beautifully carved entrance to Banteay Srai

Lion-men in the courtyard, Banteay Srai

Preah Khan temple, an incredible maze of ruins

Wandering through time at Preah Khan

On our way to Angkor Wat for sunset, we stopped for a break in the shade to chat with Mr. Vin, our tuk-tuk driver/Khmer teacher/selfie extraordinaire. Then, the sunset at Angkor was absolutely stunning.

The view from the upper tower of Angkor Wat.

An idyllic courtyard, peaceful and inspiring.

Ankgor Wat in the late afternoon light.

Silhouette of Angkor Wat at sunset

A magical sunset!

On the recommendation of our guest house owner, we went to see the Phare Cambodian Circus. While the idea of a traditional circus makes me cringe, this performance is animal-free and provides amazing opportunities for Cambodians to receive an education and learn art, music, and acrobatics which opens many doors for a successful future.

The circus was seriously impressive!

Our few days in Cambodia were short, but the delicious curries and breathtaking temples will be hard to forget!

Cover photo: Angkor Wat at sunset