Paklenica

Our first climbing destination in Croatia was Paklenica National Park, which initially felt like climbing in a gym! We walked 5 minutes from the van, and were climbing a wall between the park restrooms and cafe. While not the adventurous experience we were expecting, it was the perfect setting to meet other climbers and warm up.

While we spent several enjoyable days cragging in the park, the most exciting day was our climb of Mosoraski. The 1000 foot 5.9/10a route climbs Anica Kuk, the most prominent peak in the park. We simul-climbed the first 700 feet, enjoying the views of the valley below and climbing in closer proximity than usual. Alan climbed the crux pitch and I linked the last two pitches – fighting terrible rope drag, but too eager to reach the summit to stop and belay. The ascent took us just over 3 hours, and we couldn’t stop smiling as we hiked to the summit, then down the back side of the mountain. The sun was out in full force on our hike down, making us extra grateful that we had climbed the shady vertical face. Just before the climbers trail rejoined the main trail, we spotted a hidden waterfall and a clear pool, and couldn’t resist a swim!

That night, we were invited to a little party hosted by a conference of mountain rescuers from Croatia, Spain, and Slovakia. We shared bits of culture and stories while we sampled wine from the three countries. This experience felt special and is part of why we love climbing while traveling.

Each night we returned to our camp on a secluded rocky beach to cook dinner, enjoy local wines and stunning sunsets, and chat with other travelers who passed through. Waking up on the beach allowed for morning swims (or in my case, shin-deep excursions into the sea) and excellent views while drinking our morning coffee.

The weather for one day was not looking so good, so we took a tour around the adjacent peninsula. We watched the storm from the other bank, and explored the city of Zadar. In the evening, the clouds cleared, and on our way back we were rewarded with a gorgeous sunset, and a star-filled sky.

Our last day climbing in the park was relaxing – we belayed from smooth stones in the shady creek, hung the hammock, and climbed until raindrops convinced us to call it a day.