Green Climbers Home

Legend tells of a climber’s paradise hidden in the karst mountains of Laos. They say that any climber willing to endure a confusing and fairly uncomfortable bus ride from Vietnam will be rewarded with amazing limestone faces, tufas, caves, and roofs. In Thakhek Laos, we found climber heaven, where the approaches are done in flip flops, the food is delicious, the company is friendly, and the climbing is legendary.

To be fair, most adventure seekers will arrive from much closer Nakhon Phanom, Thailand. However, we would argue that the 12 hour commute from Hue, Vietnam showcases the ability of the region’s people to organize chaos in a fashion nothing short of miraculous to our western minds. We stayed the night in Thakhek, and after a mini adventure in the morning at the local market to gather snacks for the week, we arrived to Green Climbers Home at lunch time.

Green Climbers Home felt like a summer camp for rock climbers. The daily schedule consists of climbing, eating, and relaxing. We traded stories with new friends, read books, practiced yoga, and slacklined. Without cell service or internet, there was a sense of community, and our sleep schedule largely followed the sun. Climbing walls line the valley on either side, making it possible to find shade at any time of the day. Routes for all climbing levels are abundant, but especially for those climbing in the moderate 5.10 – 5.11 range, like Mel and I. I couldn’t get enough of wrestling tufas, climbing into caves halfway up a cliff, climbing horizontally across roofs, and finding out that the rock I was holding on to was actually a fossilized shell the size of my fist. Aside from the climbing, in our short two weeks, we met amazing people who we’re really hoping to climb with in the future!

In the evening, the goats return to their roost at the base of one of the climbing areas, and the mountain at the mouth of the valley glows red with the evening sun. The stars come out as tired climbers talk about their achievements or disappointments of the day over dinner, miming interesting body positions in moves. Cuts and scrapes are trophies, destroyed hands are nursed but also shown off. The climber culture is so weird but we love it.

When our time came to leave, I still had a list of climbs I wanted to try, or that I hadn’t quite “sent” (read: “figured out”). Green Climbers Home is joining El Potrero Chico, Kalymnos, and Piedra Parada on our list of favorite sport climbing destinations. We’ll be back to send our unfinished projects!