Despite our best efforts, we still got grey weather in Albania. However, we caught a fantastic weather window to take a river cruise and go for a hike! Along the way, we found fine dining and natural warm springs.
Almost everyone told us that Albanian roads were very bumpy, and the drivers crazy. Maybe we were just in the right parts, but we found both of these to be OK. Sure, some bridges looked a smidge past rusty, but overall I thought the infrastructure was surprisingly solid.
Roads aside, our first stop in Albania was a highly recommended restaurant in the countryside outside Skoder. The ordering process was more or less non-existant, and course after course arrived to our table. It was delicious. Albanian dishes with a modern twist, perhaps, and all very fresh from the adjacent farm. The highlight was definitely the trio of ice cream at the end, one of which arrived in a rose water sphere of ice which was as amazing as it sounds. The cherry on top: the bill was exceedingly reasonable, we’ve paid more for sandwiches in LA.
The next morning, we boarded a river ferry and took a gorgeous ride along the Komani lake/Drin river. The weather was perfect, and mountains flanked the river the whole way. Since the weather was holding up, we hurriedly drove to a trailhead and trekked up to the well known pass between Theth and Valbone. We felt so lucky to be able to see the whole valley on either side with clouds barely skirting the peaks. By the time we got down, the clouds had followed us into the valley and it started to rain.
Feeling accomplished, we ran away from the rain in true California style. Before arriving to Greece, we spent the night near warm springs to take a dip in the morning. The spring water was crystal clear, and just warm enough to be comfortable.
Our time in Albania was short but very sweet. Next time we’ll catch the better weather and stay a while.
